What to Eat in Bergama: A Local's Food Guide
In short, the foods you must try in Bergama are Bergama köfte, çığırtma, Bergama (Izmir) tulum cheese, pine nuts from the Kozak Plateau and the Aegean's legendary street food, kumru. Famous for its ancient ruins, Bergama has a cuisine every bit as rich as its ancient city. In this guide we share both the classic local dishes and where to eat them, from a local's point of view.
What is Bergama köfte, and what makes it different?
Bergama köfte stands apart from other Turkish meatballs because of its recipe. It contains no garlic and no breadcrumbs; instead, flour is added and the well-spiced minced meat is left to rest for a while before cooking. Thin and flat, it's usually grilled and served with a tomato sauce and rice. It's the first classic meat lovers should try in Bergama. You can eat the best at Altın Kepçe Bergama Köfte restaurant.
Çığırtma: Bergama's summer olive-oil dish
Çığırtma is a summer dish cooked in olive oil that brings together roasted aubergine, peppers, tomatoes and garlic. Bergama families often make it at home, but you'll find it in very few restaurants, so don't miss it when you do. Eaten with sourdough village bread, it's irresistible. Many of Bergama's traditional tradesmen's restaurants (esnaf lokantası) serve a delicious çığırtma, but visitors' favourite place for it is Bergama Sofrası.
Bergama tulum cheese
Bergama tulum cheese is so famous that it gave its name to “Izmir tulum cheese”. With its rich, salty and distinctive flavour, it's the crowning touch of breakfasts and of many of the region's dishes. While you're in Bergama, don't leave without tasting it – or even taking some home. One small tip: even if you're not a fan of sheep's milk, don't make up your mind until you've tried the mixed sheep-and-cow's-milk Bergama tulum cheese.
Kozak Plateau pine nuts and pine honey
The Kozak Plateau, part of Bergama, is where some of Türkiye's finest pine nuts are grown. In the area you'll also find pine nuts in nut halva and pine-nut tea, and you can taste the plateau's famous pine honey.
What else to eat in Bergama
Bergama kebab – lamb slow-cooked in a stone oven or tandır pit
Chickpea börek – a breakfast treat found fresh in the bakeries every morning
Clove leblebi – roasted chickpeas with cloves and mastic, an unusual and interesting flavour
Sourdough village bread – a village bread set apart by its clove and mastic aroma
Keşkek and kadınbudu köfte – classic traditional restaurant dishes
Kemalpaşa dessert (the tahini version is famous) and sütlaç rice pudding – for a sweet break
Bergama's street food: kumru
Alongside the traditional dishes, if you want a quick but local break in Bergama, the answer is clear: kumru. With its special sesame bread, sucuk and cheese, kumru is one of the Aegean's best-loved street foods.
One of the best places for kumru in Bergama is Mehmet Hoca'nın Yeri. Its story is just as Bergama as the food: founder Mehmet Hoca spent years as a coach at Bergama's local football club, Bergama Belediyespor, teaching children to play football – hence the nickname “Hoca” (coach). About 15 years ago he opened his own snack bar and started selling his sandwiches. You can see traces of this past in menu names like the “Number 10 Menu” and the “Champions League Menu”, and in the football-shaped logo.
What makes Mehmet Hoca's kumru different is entirely local: the sesame kumru bread, made to his own recipe, is baked in traditional stone ovens and filled with Bergama tulum cheese and sucuk from Bergama's butchers. So when you eat the kumru, you're also tasting Bergama's famous tulum cheese. The signature dish is the kumru with tulum cheese and butcher's sucuk. Alongside the kumru, there are toasties and burgers too.
Where to eat in Bergama (is anywhere open on Sundays?)
A detail worth knowing when exploring Bergama: most businesses are closed on Sundays, which is why weekend visitors can struggle to find somewhere open.
The good news: Mehmet Hoca'nın Yeri is open on Sundays too. So after exploring the ancient city, you can drop in for your kumru at the weekend as well. If you're looking for a break that's both quick and made with local ingredients, put it at the top of your list.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most famous food in Bergama?
Bergama's most famous dishes are Bergama köfte, çığırtma and Bergama tulum cheese. Kozak pine nuts and kumru, the Aegean's much-loved street food, also stand out.
How is Bergama köfte different from other köfte?
Bergama köfte contains no garlic or breadcrumbs; instead, flour is added and the well-spiced minced meat is left to rest before cooking. It's a thin, flat and spicy köfte.
Are there restaurants open on Sundays in Bergama?
Although most businesses in Bergama are closed on Sundays, some places are open. For example, Mehmet Hoca'nın Yeri, with its kumru, toasties and burgers, is open on Sundays too.
Where can I eat kumru in Bergama?
One of the best places for kumru in Bergama is Mehmet Hoca'nın Yeri. It's known for kumru made with its own stone-oven bread, Bergama tulum cheese and sucuk from local butchers.
What is Bergama tulum cheese?
Bergama tulum cheese is a regional cheese with a rich, distinctive flavour that gave its name to Izmir tulum cheese. It's one of Bergama's most famous products.
As you discover the flavours of Bergama, if you'd like to enjoy both tradition and local street food, don't forget to stop by Mehmet Hoca'nın Yeri for its stone-oven kumru and local ingredients.
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